Fashion, Men's Fashion

Key Menswear Trends for A/W13

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Climatically speaking, winter brings Amazonian levels of rainfall and misery to our fair isles, but if there’s one palliative aspect to the ferocious elements, it comes from the comforting warmth of the A/W collections. Here’s a look at how some of the season’s biggest trends can keep you safe from Mother Nature’s icy bite.

Turtle Necks

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Raf Simons, Pringle of Scotland and Lanvin were just some of the labels that sent models down the catwalk swathed in turtle necks and the trend is one of AW13’s most versatile. The perfect base for layering, a turtle neck is a guy’s go-to item for achieving the perfect juxtaposition between style and toasty comfort. Replace your shirt with one of these bad boys and wear with a suit and some classic brogues for an of-the-minute nod to the trend or throw it over some smart trousers and pair with a denim aviator jacket for a rule breaking, yet winning ensemble.

Sports Luxe

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This is one of my favourite trends for AW13 because it allows you to fly in the face of convention by combining the relaxed aspect of sportswear with the more sophisticated nature of occasion dressing. A pair of dress trousers rolled up at the ankles grappling for limelight against some vintage trainers looks so on-point this season. It’s contradictive and bold and it works so well. Ultimate AW13 outfit: some black trousers, maroon Nike kicks, a classic white tee and a black bomber jacket.

The Coat

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As always, The Winter Coat is a staple, but this season, the hue to be seen in is that word that shan’t dare be mentioned in the fashion world – beige. Yes, the colour that’s perpenially hated upon by fashion’s cognoscenti is emerging triumphantly from its own oppressive reputation.  Austin Reed, J Crew, DSquared2 and of course, Burberry Prorsurm are championing the beige coat for AW13 and it’s a must-have item for any style-conscious guy. If you’re feeling brave, why not try a Margiela-esque beige cape and team it with head-to-toe black to play into another of autumn/winter’s biggest trends – volume Vs. structure. Want a classic? Then the camel coat is your friend!

Orange

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Perhaps the trend I’m most happy about is the mood-enhancing abundance of orange for AW13. It’s my favourite colour! London Collections: Men was brimming at the seams with the vibrant hue and it has appeared in nearly every high street store since! Be as subtle or as bold as you like with orange this season – introduce it with some quirky socks to pay homage to the trend or go for a cable knit jumper from the likes of Topman or River Island. The Orange Dream this season is definitely Topman Design’s (now famous) pea coat.

Tartan

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Everyone from Nick Wooster to Eddie Redmayne has been spotted in a tartan suit recently and the prominence of tartan in both women and menswear for AW13 is unavoidable. Head-to-toe tartan can be hard to pull off, but when it’s done correctly, it looks oh-so slick. The likes of Moncler Gamme Bleu and Jill Sander pretty much perfected their tartan ensembles for AW13 and it’s a look I can’t wait to tap into. The dark green and navy tartan print is definitely a more subtle option than the traditional red one and I’m currently coveting a pair of trousers in said print. Keep the rest of your outfit refined and unfussy for a sophisticated tartan moment!

Originally penned for HelpMyStyle.ie.

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HILFIGER 3
Lifestyle, Men's Fashion

Menswear’s Biggest Trends for AW12 | Jamie Tuohy

I know, I know. Scarcely have the summer months left us and we’re already talking about autumnal trends, but fashion moves quickly and before we know it, we’ll be left out in the cold, still wearing our Orlebar Brown swimming shorts. Proceed with haste gentleman and observe the coming season’s greatest offerings.

Frontline Fashion

From Alexander McQueen to Salvatore Ferragamo, for the coming autumn and winter months, menswear is all about battleground regalia. The military trend has long been a tour de force in both menswear and womenswear, but AW12 has conscripted the trend once again and thanks to the likes of Sarah Burton, Paul Smith, Gucci and one Donatella Versace, it’s a look that commands attention.

However, one designer who featured the trend in every aspect of his collection is Tommy Hilfiger, whose AW12 offerings, promised “a personalized take on military precision.” Tommy Hilfiger is a brand, that, in Ireland at least, can often be pigeon-holed into solely providing the classic American preppy look, but this collection proves that he’s more than just a chino and jumper kind of designer.

Forget any Action-Man images, because this military-inspired collection is all about luxe-officer, bonded leathers and clever zip detailing. It almost sounds like a 50 Shades of Grey reference, but I assure you, Hilfiger’s AW12 pieces will soldier on to make a much more impressive statement!

Knitwear

The AW12 menswear catwalks were awash with oversized jumpers, comfy cardigans and all round-relaxed country living – a nice antidote to the stern militarism of other trends. From knitted turtlenecks, to sheepskin leather aviator jackets, comfortable and cosy clothing is a practical, yet stylish trend for the cold winter months.

You wouldn’t be far out of touch donning your grandfather’s Aran sweater for AW12, as it’s all about nonchalant and oversized knits. Hermès, Burberry and Missoni all sent models down the catwalk in chunky and colourful knits and if you’re worried about loud prints, fear not! The louder the better for autumnal weekend retreats!

So say the newest and freshest knitwear designers on the market anyway! That’s ORLEY, in case you’re wondering. Consisting of Brothers Matthew and Alex Orley, who learned their crafts at Thom Browne and Rag & Bone respectively, and Matthew’s girlfriend, Samatha Florence, who trained at Helmut Lang, Orley offers innovative and quirky designs with craftsmanship often only expected from a top heritage brand.

The Pinstripe Suit

Risk taking is synonymous with fashion and perhaps the strong presence of the pinstripe suit in many AW12 menswear collections is a manifestation of the global economic crisis, as fashion treaded near the vicinity of politics, in a VERY business-like manner. For this trend, of course, the risk taking was not done on the part of the designers. The misjudged and boundless risk taking in today’s globalised economy has resulted in the recession we find ourselves in at this present moment and this financial instability obviously resonated with many designers. Alongside loud trends (think Versace’s Baroque decadence), existed certain elements of conservatism and Sarah Burton incorporated British understatement beautifully into her menswear collection.

Since taking over as the creative director of Alexander McQueen, Sarah has gone from strength to strength, (after all, it’s thanks in no small part to her that a certain Pippa Middleton went on to become a media powerhouse, courtesy of a strategically-structured McQueen gown) and she has pioneered some of the season’s foremost trends in her AW12 collection. Double-breasted jackets are also a huge look for autumn/winter and Sarah has not only combined them with this trend, but she has given us more ‘pin for our buck’, with stronger and more perceptible stripes than traditional pin-stripe suits. World leaders, please head to Ms Burton before tackling that ever-expanding debt.

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Men's Fashion, Movies

A LAW-fully Good Style: Jude Law – Jamie Tuohy

For the past two decades, Jude Law has been one of Hollywood’s leading men, appearing in blockbuster movies such as The Talented Mr Ripley, The Road to Perdition, Sherlock Holmes and gaining critical acclaim and numerous accolades for his theatre performances, perhaps most notably in Shakespeare’s Hamlet. However, Jude Law isn’t just a talented and award-winning actor, but also a serious player on the international style scene. Law is reluctant to accept any suggestions that proclaim him to be a fashion aficionado, but it’s hard to think of many other guys who can wear flip-flops with a suit and still look stylish.

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The British actor’s look is full of contradictions – a juxtaposition of devilish nonchalance and slim-fit classic tailoring. However these are contrasts that work and this is partly the reason why Jude’s style is so easy to recreate for us mere mortals. He doesn’t wear clothes that are ostentatious and aloof from everyday dressing. It is the imperfection of his look that makes his style so accessible for other guys and it is also the very thing that makes him a style icon. The 39-year-old star will wear a loose fitting t-shirt with slim-fit jeans, teamed with loafers or brogues or combine a Dior tuxedo with retro shades and look equally as voguish in each.

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The success of his look resides in the fact that Jude recognises the importance of cut and fit in no matter what he is wearing. It’s all about getting clothes that create the best possible silhouette for your body and this is something a lot of us guys can learn from. Too many Irish guys choose the XL shirt when really a large would look much better. As the face of Dior Homme Sport, it’s highly likely that Jude has a little help with his red carpet outfits, but he never looks too overdone and is always appropriately and stylishly dressed for any occasion. Even when he is wearing a baggy jumper with dishevelled trainers, they are counteracted with great fitting trousers, creating a sense of orchestrated chaos about his get up.

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What’s admirable about Jude Law’s style is that it isn’t thwarted by seasonal trends and isn’t subjugated by the latest ‘must have’ looks. Whether this is a conscious decision on his part or an expression of apathy towards conventionalism, there’s no denying that Jude Law has style. Here’s how to get his look:

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Tonic Scoop Neck T-Shirt – €30 All Saints

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Blazer – €164 J Crew @ Mr Porter

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Jeans – €100 Nudie @ Mr Porter

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Brogues – €83 Schuh

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Scarf – £13 RiverIsland Online

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Lifestyle, Men's Fashion

My Mr Porter Wishlist – Jamie Tuohy

When Natalie Massenet launched Net-A-Porter, she revolutionised online shopping – allowing the lady with a plethora of cash to purchase the very latest Gucci or Herve Leger dress, without having to step outside her door. She capitalised on a market that was niche and absolutely minted, making herself a multi-millionaire in the process. However, not content with conquering the world of luxury womenswear online, Massenet recognised the potential for a similar site to grow on prosper – one that was solely dedicated to men, and so; Mr Porter was born.

Launched in 2011, the recession hasn’t impinged on sales as Mr Porter actually began when the luxury goods market exhibited signs of recovery. As is Net-A-Porter, the site is geared towards the more affluent in our society, but unlike its female counterpart, Mr Porter features around 80 brands, as opposed to Net-A-Porter’s 350. Cleverly (some might even say insidiously or craftily), the site’s founder knows that us guys don’t want to be bombarded with mountains of labels – just like when we shop in store, we want to get in, get the clothes and get out as quickly as possible.

If most of us guys are being honest, we prefer to shop in men’s-only stores and will try and avoid negotiating our way through the women’s section, only to arrive at a disproportionately represented corner of the shop, entitled menswear. If you have bags of cash, then Mr Porter is a dream site for the guy who likes to retain his masculinity whilst purchasing the latest designer labels. Featuring a mix of editorial content and interviews with some of the most revered and well-respected figures in the male fashion industry, as well as a style icon series, Mr Porter is all about bringing “bringing fashion to the man”.

Unfortunately, in these recessionary times which demand frugality and prudence, not everyone can afford to indulge in Mr Porter’s sartorial offerings, but just like the ladies, us fellas can dream as well. I certainly don’t have the budget of a Wall Street investment banker and I haven’t acquired that Hamptons summer house to wear those Ralph Lauren loafers around yet, but if I ever hit the jackpot, then this wish list shall be welcomed with open arms into Chez Tuohy.

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Bottega Veneta Safari jacket – €5700

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Alexander McQueen Skull-printed cashmere scarf – €306

 

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Jill Sander Wool and Mohair-Blend suit – €1725

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Grenson “Dylan” Suede Brogues – €232

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Jean Machine Slim Fit Chinos – €160

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John Smedley Sweater – €190

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Men's Fashion

Summer Sensations – Jamie Tuohy

Okay, let’s face it guys, Ireland isn’t exactly a paradisiacal island in which we can stroll around on sandy shores, basking in 30˚C heat, while forming a Hollywood style golden tan. The traditional and probably stereotypical image of the Irish man on holiday generates a vision of a guy with pasty white skin becoming ravaged by the foreign sun, while he wears 10 year old board shorts and his favourite GAA jersey, all the while strutting down the beach with buckets of self-confidence and fully believing he is the bee’s knees. ‘God’s gift and timeless’, he probably thinks. We’re not so sure that the jersey of your local hurling team should manifest itself in your summer wardrobe and become a staple of the Irishman on Spanish beaches.

 Of course, this is a sweeping generalisation, akin to the traditional stage imagery of the Irishman as a ramping leprechaun, spouting idioms inextricably linked to potatoes. But guys this is nothing short of a polemic! Okay, I am slightly exaggerating, (just slightly) but it’s hard to deny that summer wear is something which is incredibly ignored by the majority of Irish men. There are those guys who look enviably cool in their retro Ray Bans and print shirt, but more often than not, we tend to wear the same baggy shorts year in and year out – apathetic towards style and seasonal dressing.

 Well guys, it doesn’t have to be like this! Irish weather might not present us with Caribbean rays, but that doesn’t mean that we can’t exploit the few days of summer sunshine we get by bringing out some trendy tropical threads. There is no point in spending obscene amounts of money on summer clothes as, not only is the season too fleeting to justify such extravagance, but the geography of our Emerald Isle doesn’t exactly endow us with shining celestial kisses for too long.

 The key to summer dressing is to master the art of preparation and foreshadowing – mixing light and casual clothing, with water resistant jackets, just in case Mother Nature looks unkindly upon our shores. Tribal prints are huge for summer and whether they appear inconspicuously on your shirt, or dominate your swimming shorts, the Aztecs have very much arrived on the Irish fashion scene. Light weight canvas shoes are a must and a reasonably priced pair of trendy sunglasses will see any guy through the summer months.

 Here are some key pieces for summer 2012 from River Island Online:

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Ecru Tribal Print shirt – £25

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Stone Turn-Up shorts – £30

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Red Swipe Swimming Shorts – £22

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Teal Spitalfields Woven shirt – £35

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White LA T-Shirt – £16

And if you have wads of cash to spare, then my luxury purchase comes from Mr Porter:

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Linda Farrow Luxe Sunglasses – €405

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